BOSMAN'S BUSH TELEGRAPH - 12 APRIL 2000

Hi there

Thanks so much for all the updates on the Super 12 - although I must say that those received from Shark's supporters had quite a different slant to those received from Stormer's supporters!

We have just returned to civilization (I use that word very loosely) after three days in the Okovango Delta on a mokoro. A trip on a mokoro was described by our guide book as the ultimate way to see the Okovango Delta and we couldn't understand the sniggers and raised eyebrows that we got from Maun locals when we made enquiries about mokoro safari's into the delta. Having been on one for a full three days I can understand why the locals wont set foot on them and regard them merely as a tourist lark! A traditional mokoro is a wooden boat carved out of a single tree trunk although these days, in an attempt to preserve the forests and to keep up with the booming tourist trade, most mekoro in use commercially are made of fiberglass. The mekoro are owned and propelled by delta river guide's called polers (because they literally push the boat along using a wooden pole).

A Wooden Mokoro

A traditional mokoro is a wooden boat carved out of a single tree trunk although these days, in an attempt to preserve the forests and to keep up with the booming tourist trade, most mekoro in use commercially are made of fiberglass. The plural of mokoro is mekoro and these craft are traditionally used for transport - in fact it is possible to travel by mokoro, along the waterways of the delta from Seronga to Maun. Such a journey would take approximately 7 days.

We eventually settled on a mokoro trip in the northern delta starting from a village called Seronga which is situated right up at the delta panhandle. We were assured that this was the most unspoiled part of the delta and perfect for the complete mokoro experience (read: there is nothing there except grass and bugs!) We flew to Seronga from Maun in a tiny four-seater airplane that looked and sounded more like an overgrown lawnmower. Our pilot, an Aussie called Nathan, looked as though he was suffering from a massive hang over. We were later told that Saturday's are positively the worst days to fly anywhere in the delta as the pilots are regulars at the Maun pubs on Friday nights. Nevertheless, the flight was at sunrise and was absolutely spectacular. The delta is magnificent and consists of a myriad of channels and islands. It is only possible to understand the complexity of the delta once one sees it from the air. From the air we also saw herds of antelope and buffalo on the various islands.

The Seronga Air Strip Arial view of the Okovango Delta on our flight to Seronga

The Delta at Sunset on our first night there

We were met in Seronga by our poler "E.B" who is part of a self-regulated poler organization called the Seronga Poler's Trust. After we had been driven to the poler station in a rickety old Samil truck we boarded our mokoro and set off for three days in the delta. Camping in the delta can at best be described as rough and at worst as torturous. We had to take all our food and water for the three days as well as our tents, pots, plates and clothing. Packing for the trip was extremely difficult as we had to take enough stuff for three days but could not exceed the 10-kilogram per person weight limit for the flight on the (very) light aircraft. We ate copious amounts of "Smash", bully beef and rusks and had to resort to drinking swamp water on day two as we had exhausted our water supplies. The water in the swamp is however crystal clear so this didn't pose too much of a problem. I must say we found it quite difficult to adapt to the very relaxed pace and simplicity of life in the delta and kept wondering how on earth we were going to keep ourselves busy for three days. I think that EB had quite a laugh at us over civilized city folk complaining about how hard the ground was to sleep on, how many bugs there were and how we had not showered in three days. He was most tolerant though and seemed to turn a blind eye to the wholesale bug slaughter that we engaged in for the three days!

We had imagined that the route that EB would follow would be through the bigger channels in the delta but this it would seem is not what the mokoro experience is all about. For the most part we spent three days trawling through long grass fighting off every type of insect imaginable. EB was an excellent guide and was extremely knowledgeable about the bird and plant life in the delta. We saw some fantastic birds including more than one African Fish Eagle and the rare Delta Pels Fishing Owl. On the days that we camped in the delta, EB took us on early morning and late afternoon game walks and we really got a feel for life in the delta. EB and his mokoro at dusk

EB and his mokoro filled with our luggage

We had imagined that the route that EB would follow would be through the bigger channels in the delta but this it would seem is not what the mokoro experience is all about. For the most part we spent three days trawling through long grass fighting off every type of insect imaginable. EB was an excellent guide and was extremely knowledgeable about the bird and plant life in the delta. We saw some fantastic birds including more than one African Fish Eagle and the rare Delta Pels Fishing Owl. On the days that we camped in the delta, EB took us on early morning and late afternoon game walks and we really got a feel for life in the delta.

Nev in the delta and the hot bread that we discovered at the Seronga Bakery

We returned to Seronga dirty and tired and sporting about 60 mossie bites each (the delta mosquito's seem to be immune to Tabard - not good since the delta is a high risk malaria area - hope that Larium is working) but having had the most fantastic time. Despite our concerns about how we would pass the time, the three days had passed blissfully and without our realizing it. We spent the night in Seronga where we were treated to a traditional meal of bream and samp and flew

back to Maun yesterday. I am quite ashamed to admit that our first stop after having a shower was to the Maun Steers for a hamburger lunch! I guess some things never change - despite our lessons in simplicity from EB.

We are headed for Chobe today and will spend the next three days there camping at Serondela and Savuti. We have had to cut our Botswana trip short for various reasons. The Moremi reserve is closed due to the heavy rain that the area has recently experienced. The Botswana Parks Board has also recently increased its park entrance fees by more then double. This change which seems to have been effective from 1 April 2000 means that we have to pay about 350 pula (almost 500

rand) per night to CAMP at Chobe. We will therefore be heading for Vic Falls sooner than expected. We have heard some ghastly reports about Zim though so will have to re-evaluate the situation when we get to the Falls. We will be able to stock up with diesel at Kasane before crossing the border although we hear that there is diesel available at Vic Falls. All the overland trucks would seem to be carrying diesel in huge 44-gallon drums and those travelers that we have met seem to have passed through Zim without any trouble.

We have just reached Kasane and I have caught my first glimpse of the river so will be signing off now. I hope that you are all well. Please send mail - we love getting it!

lots of love

penny and neville