Our Route through Botswana………

 

GENERAL

 

Park Fees and Tariffs

 

The Botswana Parks Board has recently increased the park fees and tariffs dramatically.  The new tariff structure came into effect from 1 April 2000 and is as follows:

 

Park/Reserve Entry Fees (Privately Organized Tours) per person per day (Pula)

 

Citizens

Residents

Non-Residents

18 years and over

10-00

30-00

120-00

8 –17 years

5-00

15-00

60-00

Under 8

Free

Free

Free

Park/Reserve Entry Fees (Tours through Botswana registered and licensed tour operators, lodges and hotels) per person per day (Pula)

 

Citizens

Residents

Non Residents

18 years and over

10-00

30-00

70-00

8-17 years

5-00

15-00

35-00

Under 8

Free

Free

Free

Camping Fees per person per day (Pula)

 

Citizens

Residents

Non-Residents

18 years and over

5-00

20-00

30-00

8-17 years

2-50

10-00

15-00

Under 8

Free

Free

Free

Fees for Motor Vehicles – Private motor vehicles under 3500kg, per day (Pula)

Botswana Registered – 10-00

Foreign Registered 50-00

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The new tariffs represent an increase of more than double the old tariffs and visiting the Botswana Parks has now become a very costly business. Spending a night at the Nxai Pan or Ihaha will now cost you 270-00 pula per person per day (120 x 2 + 30) and an additional 50 pula per day for the vehicle.  Bearing in mind that the pula is stronger than the rand, visiting the Botswana Parks has become out of reach for most South African tourists.   In addition, under the old system, if you left the park by 10 am you did not have to pay park entrance fees for that day. Under the new system however you have to pay park entrance fees for each day spent in the Park irrespective of whether you arrive late in the afternoon or leave early in the morning.  Paying heavy park entrance fees would not be such a problem if you felt that you were getting value for your money.  Unfortunately, however, we found that the park officials, particularly at Chobe, were unhelpful and generally disinterested.  We were for instance, not given any information about the appalling state of the roads between the Chobe gate and Savuti.  In addition, we were made to feel guilty for interrupting the 5-odd wardens playing cards in the park offices to make enquiries about game sightings etc.  We also found the roads in an abysmal condition (although this was largely due to the heavy rains in the area) and the facilities at the campsites to be dirty and in need of maintenance.

 

Our general impression was that the new park tariff structure was aimed directly at milking tourists for additional revenue and it left a rather bad taste!  We had thought that we would over night at the Nxai Pan on our way up to Chobe as this seemed, to us, to be a perfect place to break our journey from Maun to Kasane. However, once we discovered that a night at the Nxai Pan was going to cost us over 600 pula (almost R1000-00) and we only arrived there at 6pm in the evening and were planning to leave for Chobe the next morning – it was just not worth our while and we had to cancel our night there! A real pity, as I am sure that this will be the approach of many tourists in our position.

 

 

Booking for the Botswana Parks

 

 

Bookings for the Botswana Parks must be done centrally through the reservations office in Maun at the following address:

 

Parks and Reservations Office, Department of Wildlife and National Parks, P O Box 20364, Maun, Tel:  66 1265 and Fax: 66 1264
 

 
 

We tried on more than one occasion to get through to the Maun office but to no avail. The phone was constantly engaged.   When we arrived in Maun and went to the office the mystery of the engaged phone was revealed – the parks officials lounge around the office and make a constant stream of personal and social calls. We would recommend trying to book your stay in the Botswana Parks by fax!
 

 

Unfortunately there are very few campsites in each of the parks. At Ihaha in Chobe, for instance, there are only 8 campsites.  It is therefore necessary to book your campsites well in advance! We were lucky to find a booking at Chobe and it was only because there had been so many cancellations due to the floods.

 

Park Conditions and the recent floods

 

Moremi

We visited Botswana in early April and when we arrived we discovered that Moremi was closed.  The recent heavy rain had meant that the roads were in a dismal condition and a couple of vehicles had got stuck.  The Parks Board was not able to tell us when Moremi was expected to reopen. In addition, the road between Moremi and Savuti via the Mbabe Depression was also closed.

 

Savuti

We were advised that we could camp at Ihaha, which is situated on the Chobe River and has replaced the old Serondela which has been closed, and at Savuti.  We booked a night at Ihaha and planned to travel to Savuti, overnight there and return the next day.  We had not bargained on the absolutely terrible condition of the roads between Ihaha and Savuti.  Traveling to Savuti we followed the road to the Ngoma gate and then out of the park via Mabele, Kavimba and Kachehabwe to Savuti.  This road is covered in very thick sand punctuated with corrugations and traveling along it is incredibly slow and grinding.  The trip took us most of the day to complete.  The roads surrounding Savuti had been badly flooded and there was still a lot of water lying in puddles on the road.  In addition, the roads were exceptionally muddy.  After spending a night at Savuti we headed back to Ihaha via Zweitse Pan and Nogatsaa Camp. Well, if we had thought that the other route to Savuti was bad the drive back to Ihaha was a nightmare.  The road was non-existent and in many places passed directly through the pans.  Aside from the water on the road much of the road had been washed away and there were huge muddy dongas and potholes. At some places the track was so unused and covered with long grass that we were sure that we had strayed off the main route and had to navigate our way back by using our GPS.  The drive of about 160 km’s took us between 8 and 9 hours to complete!  The only other vehicle we saw the whole day was a rental 4x4 that had taken on water and had sunk in the pan!  The driver and passengers of the vehicle had been forced to abandon all their gear and their vehicle and walk back to Savuti (a distance of about 50km’s). We later heard that Savuti had been closed a couple of days after we had left Chobe.  Our vehicle managed the trip relatively unscathed but did suffer a bent track rod which we had to repair in Ihaha (by heating it over a fire and banging it back in to shape) We would recommend a careful check on conditions and all the roads in the park before attempting the drive to Savuti.  The distance between Savuti and Ihaha is also too much to do comfortable in one day. If you intend to travel this route we would recommend staying at least two days at Savuti.  Of course, once Moremi has reopened the traditional route will be available again – that is to travel to Savuti from Moremi via the Mbabe Depression and then on to Ihaha.

 

OUR ROUTE

 

Gantsi

We crossed the border into Botswana from Namibia at the Buitepos/Mamuno border post and headed for Gantsi on route to Maun.  The route to Gantsi is tarred and Gantsi is about 210 km’s from the border. The only real place to stay in Gantsi is the Kalahari Arms Hotel which is in the center of Gantsi.  The hotel offers accommodation in rondavels from about 250 pula per person per night.  Camping in the garden costs 15 pula per person.  The hotel was full when we arrived so we opted for the camping option – little did we know that the garden was nothing more than a construction sight (the hotel is currently undergoing renovations). We awoke to 15 or 20 builders swarming around our vehicle at 7am!however, the Arms provides a cheap spot to over night.  It also has a restaurant that serves a decent dinner and breakfast.

 

Maun

From Gantsi we headed north to Maun.  The route passes through D’kar and Toteng and is tarred for a portion of the way.  We were told that the whole route should be tarred before the end of the year. The dirt road was however in relatively good condition.

 

Maun is a bustling center on the edge of the Okovango Delta. It is an anomalous combination between rural Botswana and western culture.  It is not unusual to see a traditional dwelling with a brand new Land Cruiser outside or to see goats crossing the main road.  Maun is the center of tourist activity for the Delta and there is a myriad of tour operators and safari companies all offering trips into the Delta.

 

Places to stay

There are a variety of accommodation options in Maun, ranging from the popular campsites to hotels. We stayed at Audi Camp which would appear to be the most popular of the campsites and is located on the Thamalakane River, 12 km’s outside Maun on the Shorobe Road and route to the Moremi gate. Camping at Audi Camp costs 20-00 pula per person per night and there are rustic ablutions.  There is also a restaurant which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, a bar and a swimming pool which is popular with the locals in the evenings.  Tented accommodation is also available and it is also possible to rent tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, pots, tables and camping stools.  Audi Camp is also able to arrange a variety of excursions including drive or fly-in mokoro safaris.  The camp is a good option as it is safe and secure, there is good shade and it provides a good spot to stay over before heading into the delta. For more info email Audi Camp at audicamp@info.bw.Tel 66 0599 / 663005 Fax 660581

 

Other options include Crocodile Camp (sales@botswana.com Tel: 66 0265; Fax 66 0793) which is next door to Audi Camp and which was started by crocodile hunter Bobby Wilmot.  Crocodile Camp is beautiful and shady and camping is about the same price as at Audi Camp.  There are also other accommodation options available. Another option is the Island Safari Lodge.

 

We also camped at the Sedia Hotel which is much closer to Maun.  Camping in the Sedia Hotel garden costs 10-00 pula per person per night and has great hotel-quality ablutions.  Campers also have full access to the hotel amenities including the pool and restaurant. We left our vehicle at the Sedia Hotel when we went on our Mokoro Safari – the hotel has 24-hour security. The hotel also arranged a free transfer to the Maun airport for us and agreed to keep our frozen meat in their freezer so that we could turn off our fridge.  All in all this was the best 20-00 pula we spent in our time in Botswana.  They are at Private Bag 0580, Maun, Tel: 660177

 

There is also the famous Riley’s Hotel which is Maun institution and well known to visitors worldwide.  P O Box 1,Maun Tel 66 0320; Fax 66 0580.

 

Places to Eat

The best value is the trendy Bull and Bush Bar and Restaurant which is situated opposite the Maun airport and offers great pizzas and burgers.  Also try the Power Station or the restaurants at the various camps on the outskirts of town.

There is also a Steers and a fully stocked Spar in Maun.

 

Our Mokoro Safari

The Okovango river is described as “the river which never finds the sea” and it disappears into a 15 000 sq km maze of lagoons, channels and islands. It’s the largest inland delta in the word and abounds with bird life and other wildlife.  The best way to explore the delta is on a mokoro, a wooden dugout that is pushed along by a guide through the shallow waters.

We chose to go on a three-day fly-in mokoro safari in the northern Okovango delta.  The major choice to be made when booking your mokoro safari is whether you intend to fly in to the delta or to drive.  The drive-in option is much cheaper than the fly–in safari but you are limited to the eastern and southern parts of the delta only.  The fly-in safari is more expensive but allows you to visit the more secluded and untouched parts of the delta.  The further you travel from Maun the better your chances are of seeing game. In addition, it is also only really possible to understand the delta when you see it from the air!

 

Prices 

Audi Camp – 2 day/2 night fly-in mokoro trip – US$200-00 per person.  A minimum of 4 people are required to do the trip.  The price includes your return flight to Seronga in the northern part of the delta, your camping fees, your mokoro and Poler/Guide.

Audi Camp – Drive in mokoro safaris – 1 Day – US$60-00 per person; 2 Day US$100-00; 3 day US$130-00 per person sharing.  Minimum two people.  Self catering.  Eastern Delta.

The Booking Company – 3 day/3night fly-in safari – US$250-00 per person (if there are 2 people). Prices fluctuate if there are more people or if there is a single person on the trip.  Once again, the price includes the return flight to Seronga, camping fees, mokoro and guide.  Their email is book@info.bw ; Tel 267 660 022; Fax 267 660 037:Address:Private Bag 0198, Maun, Botswana.

Safaris can also be organized through Gunn’s CampOddballs  and Okovango Tours and Safaris – these safaris are slightly more expensive though!

 

                   

 

We opted for the safari offered by the Booking Company as we were unable to find two other people to join us for the Audi Camp safari.  Although it was slightly more expensive, the Booking Company offered a lot of additional flexibility.  We flew out to Seronga just after sunrise.  The flight is approximately 45 minutes and provides the most breathtaking views of the Delta.  It is also possible to see quite a bit of game from the air.  Seronga is situated in the northern part of the Delta Panhandle.  When you land at Seronga you are met by your local guide/poler and are transported to the poler station where your luggage is loaded into the mokoro before you set off.  The polers used by both Audi Camp and the Booking Company are part of what is known as the Okovango Poler’s Trust. The Trust was formed by the Seronga community in 1998 to establish a viable Eco-tourism operation that is community based.  The Trust is owned and operated by the members themselves and currently provides employment for over 100 people from the Seronga community.

 

The trip is self-catering so you need to pack all your camping equipment (including tents and sleeping bags) for the three days.  You also need to pack sufficient food and water for the three days.  The catch is that there is a 10 kg limit for luggage on the flight in the light aircraft and it takes some doing to pack sufficient food and supplies for three days and to come in under 10kgs!We took lots of Smash, rusks, powder milk, canned stew etc.  Luckily, the water in the Delta is chrystal clear and can be drunk without having to be purified. There are no showers and toilets on the island and it is rough camping in its truest form!  Our guide did however did a pit toilet for us and made sure that we had sufficient drinking water.  He also ensured that we always had a fire going on which we could cook and boil water.

 

The first day is spent being poled out to one of the islands in the Delta where you set up camp.  The next two days are spent exploring the delta on the mokoro or on foot.  The bird life in the Delta is unbelievable and for bird watchers, a trip into the Delta on a mokoro is an absolute must.  We saw many fish eagles as well as a whole host of other birds including the very rare Pels Fishing Owl.  There is also a lot of game to be seen including Red Letchwe and the rare Sitatunga antelope (which I might add we didn’t see!).

 

On day three you return to Seronga and spend the last night at Seronga before being flown back to Maun the following morning.  There is a shower and toilet (although without running water) at the Seronga campsite and it is possible to arrange a traditional meal that is cooked by some of the local village women – ours included Bream (caught in the delta), waterlillies, samp, butternut and cabbage.  We were also served a local beer made from fish.

The mokoro experience is absolutely idyllic and well worth it!

 

                         

 

Other options

 

If you don’t want to spend 2 or 3 days on a mokoro, another option available is for you to fly out to one of the islands in the Southern or Eastern Delta and to camp out there for a couple of days.  From one of the island camps you will then be able to do short half day or day trips out into the Delta on a mokoro.  Probably the best option is Gunn’s Camp situated on the Boro River, overlooking Chief’s Island and bordering on the Moremi Reserve.  Here you can camp at Gunn’s Bush Camp for US$15-00 per person per night. You have to fly out to Gunn’s so make sure you budget for the price of the flight (about US$130-00 per person).You may also want to hire your tents, cooking gear etc at Gunn’s when you get there so that you do not exceed the 10kg weight limit for the flight. Gunn’s Bush Camp has hot showers, flush toilets, a restaurant and bar and from here you can hire a mokoro for about US$70-00 per day.  There is a range of luxury accommodation available at Gunn’s starting from about US$295-00 per person per night.  Remember that if you are going to be traveling in to the area of the Delta that forms part of the Moremi Reserve you will need to pay park entrance fees.  Contact Gunn’s at Private Bag 33, Maun, Botswana.  Tel: 267 660 023; Fax 267 660 040; email gunnscamp@info.bw.

 

Oddballs also offers a range of options in relation to camping, luxury accommodation and mokoro hire. They are at p o Box 39, Maun. Tel: 66 1154; Fax 66 0589 email okovango@info.bw

 

Nata

From Maun we traveled to Nata en route to Kasane.  The road between Maun and Nata is tarred and in good condition.  There is no petrol or diesel available between Nata and Maun though. We had intended to over night at the Nxai Pan but due to the punitively high cost of park entrance fees it did not make sense for us to spend one night there so we pushed on to Nata.  In Nata we stayed at the Nata Lodge which is absolutely excellent value!  The Nata Lodge is situated 10km east of Nata and offers camping for 26-50 per person per night.  The ablutions are currently being upgraded so are not in the best shape but should be completed later this year.  Campers have full access to the Lodge facilities including the pool and restaurant.

 

Kasane / Chobe

From Nata we headed north to Kasane – once again the road is tarred and in good condition but there is no petrol or diesel between Nata and Kasane – a distance of about 300km.Keep your eyes open while driving along this route – we saw lots and lots of elephants!

 

Our first night was spent at the Ihaha camp, on the banks of the Chobe River.  Serondela has been closed and a new campsite has been built at Ihaha.  The campsites at Ihaha are enormous and beautifully situated.  The views of the river are awesome.  The ablution block is situated quite far away from some of the sites and it’s quite a walk to get there!  You also don’t want to do this walk at night as Chobe’s camps are not fenced and there are plenty of wild animals prowling around at night.  The ablutions are very nice but are not very clean and there is no hot water – despite the fact that it looks like there is a solar panel system.  Around Ihaha and at the Chobe River itself game can be spotted in abundance!  We saw herds and herds of elephants including some breeding herds with tiny elephant calves.  We also saw lots of hippos, buffalo, giraffe and even the rare sable antelope.  The game viewing is really amazing.

 

         

 

From Ihaha we traveled to Savuti (check out all our moaning about the road above!).Once again the campsites at Savuti are enormous and well situated – you cannot see your neighbours which is superb.  The ablutions are nice but far from the campsites and not always clean.  We did not see as much game at Savuti as we had at Ihaha.  There were lots of elephants but we had heard that “One always sees lions at Savuti!”  Not true – we did not see any.

 

             

 

From Savuti we traveled back to Ihaha where we spent our third night in the park.

Some Chobe tit bits:    

From Ihaha we traveled back to Kasane and stayed at the Chobe Safari Lodge in Kasane.  The Lodge provided us with a haven after our harrowing trip through Chobe. You can camp at the Lodge for 30-00 pula per person per night.  We had had enough of camping (having done it for 22 days straight) and so we booked into a hotel room that had satellite TV, air -conditioning, a bath, a phone and a double bed!  I think that our room cost about 475-00 pula for the night but was well worth it.  The Lodge also has a fully licensed restaurant and bar.

 

In Kasane shop at Savas Superette and the Hot Bread Shop.

 

From Kasane we headed to the border between Botswana and Zimbabwe at Kazungula.  We had wanted to find a place in KasaneKazungula where we could have our wheels balanced as we were still limping along following the track rod debacle.  There was nothing available in either Kasane or Kazungula (except a dodgy Nissan garage where we were greeted by a crotchety old geezer who was cleaning a shot gun).In the end we had to wait until we got to Vic Falls.